When the transmission temperature reaches 95 F, you pull the “check” plug and let it drain, but if the temperature goes over 113 F, this will cause too much fluid to drain off. The Toyota / Lexus procedure, for example, requires running the vehicle level on a lift, then monitoring transmission fluid temperature, via the scan tool or flashing light on the instrument cluster, until it reaches a certain temperature. The problem with checking this type of transmission is the procedure required to do so, and getting it just right requires a sensitive scan tool. These “maintenance free” transmissions have drain and fill ports, like typical manual transmissions, as well as a third fluid level check port, usually in the transmission pan. Some newer automatic transmissions have done away with the dipstick altogether and aren’t easy to check.Wipe your finger on a white paper or paper towel to check the color and condition of the fluid. On a level surface or with the vehicle lifted and level, remove the transmission fill plug, the higher of the two, and use your finger to check that the fluid is less than 5 mm or 1/2" from the bottom of the hole. Most manual transmissions don’t have a dipstick but are checked at the fill port.You can wipe it on a white paper or paper towel to check the fluid for color and suspended particles, both good indicators of transmission health. Pull out the dipstick and check the fluid level. Pull out the dipstick, clean it with a rag, then reinsert it completely for a couple of seconds. Checking automatic transmission fluid level usually requires parking on a level surface and leaving the transmission in Park or Neutral. Honda, Ford, and GM automatic transmissions short dipsticks that weren’t obvious on opening the hood. The most common method is to use the dipstick, exactly the same as the engine dipstick, which you can usually find under the hood, though it may be harder to find in some vehicles.Generally, there are three ways to check transmission fluid level and condition, but you should always check the repair manual for specifics. Always refer to a YMM-specific repair manual or owner’s manual for transmission fluid specifications. On the other hand, adding Mercon V to an automatic transmission requiring T-IV could be disastrous – it might run for a while, but it would eventually destroy any incompatible seals or clutch materials, costing thousands in transmission rebuilding costs. In a pinch, substituting 100-weight gear oil won’t hurt a manual transmission requiring 75W-90, though you might experience slower shifting and decreased fuel economy. ![]() Whatever vehicle in question, it is critical to only use the appropriate transmission fluid for that application. Automatic transmission fluid types vary widely, such as Mercon V, T-IV, and Dexron 4, depending on YMM (year, make, model) of the vehicle in question. ![]() Differentials use similar gear oil, but likely different additives for limited-slip clutches and the like. The most basic manual transmission fluid is simply a heavy gear oil, something like 75W-90 or GL-5, but some manual transmissions require additive friction modifiers for the smooth operation of gear synchronizers. Within each group of transmission fluids, manual or automatic, there are several types and additives, depending on transmission type, gear type, and automaker. ![]() Manual transmissions use transmission fluid mainly for lubrication and heat moderation, while automatic transmissions use transmission fluid for these, and as hydraulic fluid, for pressure-operated valves, clutches, and brakes. The reason for this is because manual and automatic transmissions use transmission fluid in different ways. ![]() There are generally two types of transmission fluid, formulated for either manual or automatic transmissions, and they are not interchangeable.
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